AlligatorP

I need a brake master cylinder and a rear rotor for my 06 Predator. I bent the rear rotor last season at Sand Hollow on the rough azz rocks coming out from the dunes and my front brakes won't hold, they just bleed off. I have tried to bleed the air out, but nothing helps. Thanks, Chad

Am I right in thinking that tickets are available at the gate? I just checked tickets at UNLVtickets .com and they don't show anything??? Any help would be appreciated Chad

mrtude already replied, I'll be giving him a call in the morning

Just PM'd mrtude on GlamisDunes.com, I hope I get a response

Got your e-mail, thanks. I am not feeling anything right now, If you know what I am saying!

I will have to give that some thought. Thanks for the offer

the thought has crossed my mind

Do you have any idea what he did to fix it? I will try to PM him.

I am having an issue with my Toy Hauler (2006 Attitude 26fsak with Aluminum siding), the siding is starting to bubble out after I have driven at speed 60+ for any given time. It is happening at the front, driver side of the trailer. I have not hit anything, I don't go to places with trees to hit the sides, how could this happen? Is there anyone else that has had this issues? I talked to Attitude and they said the trailer is out of warranty and it is my problem...I asked them why a year and a half old trailer has siding blowing out and if I just bought a 28 thousand dollar piece of sh*t, as I have frindes that have alum. sided trailers for years and never had this problem. They did tell me however, they would look at the problem if I drove it down to them and if they find that it is there problem they would pay for it, otherwise if they determine it was my fault in some way, they would charge me for it. What do you think I should do? Take the trip to their facility, and risk having to pay for it and the fuel both ways, or just get it fixed here. I bought the trailer at Johhny Walkers in September of 2005. Thanks and sorry for the long post.

From what I have seen, the lift kits for the Classic models fit the new body style or GMT900 trucks, without any modifications. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthrea...t=lmm+lift+kits Here is one to look at...

Have you looked at one of these? http://www.alligatorperformance.com/index....;ProductID=1556 Banks is getting a little stingy with information on there site, and don't advertise it as a product solely for sale. It is fully adjustable, but you will most likely get less smoke with the Big Head than with it stock. If you don't have guages, you will need to add them if you want to watch what kind of boost you have added, so you don't explode the turbo. If you want smoke, try a programmer, chip or module. They add fuel and timing and will get you power, smoke and mileage. Maybe not all at the same time though, lol.

Isspro 60# boost and Pyro

Under the dash, just above the fuse box that you hook the trailer wiring harness into, there is a inch and a half or so rubber grommet that has a small bundel of wires running through it. It has a rubber fitting that pulls out of the hole from the inside of the cab, then you cut the grommet from the engine compartment side and push the wires through. The rubber fitting that you pulled out on the inside slides over the wires you pushed through and then back over the factory ones, push it back up into the hole, and voila`. Then you can start hooking up the ignition wires (I used the SEO ACCY 10 amp fuse in the block in the dash by the drivers door as a tapping location) and then grounded it just below the dash to a factory bolt. For the lights, use the brown and white wire for the dash light dimmer to power and dim the lights.

Jason Hoot method is what I use, and there are a couple of easy factory grommets that I run wires through. You have an 03, don't you?

Jason, Installing a Pyro is no big deal. If you need help, I can walk you through it over the phone.