barefoot bob Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 well my situation was a lil different i went from a world castings 454 small block to a 8:71 blown 383 small block to my 415 ls motor. ive been helping capt kllm and we learned a lot about the 6 liter motors. best bang for the buck in a v8. capt cammed his it did well then it got stolen he then turned another lq9 into a 415 with the cnc heads cam stoker and cbm got 600 hp out of it. the ls is a fantastic motor superior to the sbc in every way. yes the head and cam combo is worth the dollars. also there are 2 types of heads out there for the 6.0 you have the large square port heads from the ls7 and ls3 and ls9 and then you have the cathedral heads smaller ports from the 5.3, ls1,lq9 and ls2 capt running cnc cathedrals and making about 600 hp < but he also is stroked, i would discuss it with bruce and chris @ cbm. and both style heads have to run there respective intakes. they dont interchange. remember these are air pumps flow is the name of the game. the more air you flow the faster you go !! i dont know how much hp your looking for. or tranny or cvs you have it all plays together. mike, i would def look into a pbs tranny for your car it goes into the same basic space as your 2d but it uses the bigger s4 type internals. however there is lots of folks running 2ds behind 500 hp but the more wheelies and jumps and fast runs through the dunes the stronger your tranny needs to be ( but you know this already) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbolark Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 The truck intake flows like crap. Total waste of money to actually pay for one. If you had it already, then fine, but dont buy that POS. If you want to increase some power, get the LS6 intake. Or at least an LS2 intake. The LS6 will allow you to use your current stock 78mm throttle body. The LS2 allows you to use a 90mm throttle body for more flow. I have 2 different intakes. The one on the car now is an aluminum intake made by Professional Products. Adds some weight to the car over the plastic ones, but it allowed me to go inside and do some porting. You can only port the insides of the factory plastic intakes by cutting the bottom out of them. I also have a 90mm F.A.S.T. plastic intake. It's the best available, but quite alot of money($900.00). I will be swapping the FAST intake onto my car, hopefully picking up another 15-20hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don29palms Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 $900 for 15-20hp seems like that's REAL expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbolark Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 $900 for 15-20hp seems like that's REAL expensive. It is. Thats why I found one that was on a turbo motor and cracked. Paid 200.00 for it and epoxied the crack for 5.00. The LS6 intakes sell usually for 300.00 without the fuel rails etc...used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 The truck intake flows like crap. Total waste of money to actually pay for one. If you had it already, then fine, but dont buy that POS. If you want to increase some power, get the LS6 intake. Or at least an LS2 intake. The LS6 will allow you to use your current stock 78mm throttle body. The LS2 allows you to use a 90mm throttle body for more flow. I have 2 different intakes. The one on the car now is an aluminum intake made by Professional Products. Adds some weight to the car over the plastic ones, but it allowed me to go inside and do some porting. You can only port the insides of the factory plastic intakes by cutting the bottom out of them. I also have a 90mm F.A.S.T. plastic intake. It's the best available, but quite alot of money($900.00). I will be swapping the FAST intake onto my car, hopefully picking up another 15-20hp. hey turbolark hows the new car ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbolark Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 hey turbolark hows the new car ?? Awesome!!! Needs more power though..LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 n,e,h,p, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmor Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 n,e,h,p, Hi my name is Kevin. I have been reading about the manafold. Like all of you I want the most out of my motor. I have a ls1,I bought from cbm 450hp. This is my 3rd season on the motor.I have stroke it last year,this year I put a set of cnc heads,cbm's hot cam,42 pound Injetors,92mm throttle body. I'm taken the car to cbm on friday to put on the dyno. I hope it comes together after that. Itook it out for thanksgiving and didn't feel much more power. Was thinken about a blower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don29palms Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 (edited) Hi my name is Kevin. I have been reading about the manafold. Like all of you I want the most out of my motor. I have a ls1,I bought from cbm 450hp. This is my 3rd season on the motor.I have stroke it last year,this year I put a set of cnc heads,cbm's hot cam,42 pound Injetors,92mm throttle body. I'm taken the car to cbm on friday to put on the dyno. I hope it comes together after that. Itook it out for thanksgiving and didn't feel much more power. Was thinken about a blower? And an S4 transmission and everything else that goes with it. More horsepower is cool but it definitely get expensive to do it right. I don't know what you have in your car now so that is definitely a presumption on my part. I'm not trying to be a jerk. More horsepower makes it easier to break stuff! Edited December 14, 2009 by Don29palms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmor Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 And an S4 transmission and everything else that goes with it. More horsepower is cool but it definitely get expensive to do it right. I don't know what you have in your car now so that is definitely a presumption on my part. I'm not trying to be a jerk. More horsepower makes it easier to break stuff! I know what you mean! I have a DD 5 seat with a 2d. I guess I'm just not happy yet. This is my first car and I'm learen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbolark Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Hi my name is Kevin. I have been reading about the manafold. Like all of you I want the most out of my motor. I have a ls1,I bought from cbm 450hp. This is my 3rd season on the motor.I have stroke it last year,this year I put a set of cnc heads,cbm's hot cam,42 pound Injetors,92mm throttle body. I'm taken the car to cbm on friday to put on the dyno. I hope it comes together after that. Itook it out for thanksgiving and didn't feel much more power. Was thinken about a blower? So you have a stoker LS1? What, 383cubic inch now right? You also did a cam, heads and intake and you cant feel any more power? Should be a huge difference. Di you have Chris tune it after the parts went on or is that what the trip to CBM is for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 So you have a stoker LS1? What, 383cubic inch now right? You also did a cam, heads and intake and you cant feel any more power? Should be a huge difference. Di you have Chris tune it after the parts went on or is that what the trip to CBM is for now? Thats what I was wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmor Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 Thats what I was wondering. Yes,that is what I'm doing. Cris has already had the computer and now is dyno time. I hope it all comes together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 Yes,that is what I'm doing. Cris has already had the computer and now is dyno time. I hope it all comes together. I know a few people that have done pretty much the same work to theirs and they was a huge difference. I don't think my 2d would last one run with all that done. Hope yours holds up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) I know a few people that have done pretty much the same work to theirs and they was a huge difference. I don't think my 2d would last one run with all that done. Hope yours holds up so bite the bullet and get a pbs tranny and step up the hp :sophie: btw: heres a 383 with a blower Edited December 15, 2009 by barefoot bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmor Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 so bite the bullet and get a pbs tranny and step up the hp :sophie: btw: heres a 383 with a blower Nice,how much is that blower set up with the the inj.? What's the pbs trans? The blower on your sand car looks like the blower on my boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 so bite the bullet and get a pbs tranny and step up the hp :sophie: Do you know how much they cost? Which model do I look for? Can I borrow the money from you? LOL J/K. I still have to pay of the 2D I just got then fix my old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Mike Posted December 15, 2009 Author Share Posted December 15, 2009 OK. Found the one for me. Now just need to find out how much it costs. THis looks pretty sweet. RD4 TRANSMISSION The PBS RD-4 Transaxle is designed to combine the wide 85mm PQS-4 shaft spacing, with the length of a 2-D type transmission. This allows it to be adapted to cars designed for the length of the 2-D while providing greatly enhanced durability. The 65.65mm shaft spacing on the 2-D type gearboxes limits the strength of the gears (especially reverse) and also limits the available size of the differential assembly. The RD-4 uses the same heavy duty main case as the PBS PQH-4 and PQS-4 transaxles, but with ¾” wide 1st thru 4th driven gears. The reverse gears are the same large diameter as the H-4 and S-4 reverse with ½” wide gear engagement. These gear sets are combined with a compact version of the well proven PBS Cable shifter mechanism. This makes the gearbox short enough to have the overall length compatible with cars designed for the 2D transaxle. SPECIFICATIONS 4 SPEED MEDIUM DUTY "H" PATTERN 4 Speed plus high strength reverse Internal reverse lockout (requires neutral selection prior to reverse) Output flanges for 930 CV joints with light duty dana 40 differential Output flanges for 934/935 CV joints with heavy duty dana 60 differential Dog gear engagement Standard gear placement The 85mm spacing allows the option of using either the 2-D size (Dana 44 based differentials) with 930 drive flanges, or the larger PBS designed Dana 60 based diff which has the 934/935 axle flanges. A 1 3/16”-18 tooth spline is provided on the standard RD-4 input shaft. This is compatible with the basic standard type 9” bell housing supplied with many 2-D and S-4 style transaxles. Also the RD-4 can be supplied with the PBS/LS1 bell housing or the Outfront Motorsports bell housings designed for either a hydraulic throw out unit or cable clutch actuator (VW type) assembly for Subaru engines. If the PBS/LS1 bell housing is selected the input shaft will be supplied with the 26 tooth Chevy fine spline, allowing the use of the stock Camaro clutch and flywheel assy, this unit also allows a stock Chevy starter to be used. Any Ring and Pinion gear set available from Weddle Industries may be used. The pinion shaft is shortened and rethreaded to fit the shorter RD-4 application Available Ratios are: 4.13 4.57 4.63 4.86 5.13 5.43 Reverse rotation 5.13 and 5.43 Currently the following gear ratios are available: 1st 3.08 13/40 2nd - 3rd - 4th Gears2.45 18/44 2.0 18/36 2.12 17/36 2.22 18/40 1.79 19/34 1.65 20/33 1.5 16/24 1.31 23/30 1.21 25/30 The reverse gear ratio is 2.93 which is the same as the H-4 and S-4 transaxles. All gears are straight cut and engagement uses dog rings with 6 dogs. Theses are the same dog rings as are used in the H-4 and S-4 transaxles The RD-4 transaxle is supplied with a PBS cable shifter shift handle assembly and a separate reverse shift lever assembly which also uses a cable. These are readily adapted to cars with either mid engine or rear engine configurations by simply selecting the appropriate cable length and routing. The internal shifter mechanism in the RD-4 incorporates a reverse lockout feature which prevents selecting both reverse and a forward gear simultaneously. Putting the gearbox in neutral with the 4 speed selector allows reverse to be engaged with the separate lever. When reverse is disengaged the forward gears may be engaged in any order. When in any forward gear reverse may not be engaged. Size comparison with 2D Gear stack Mounted in car Rear Shifter Assembly Shifter Front Shifter Assembly PBS has redesigned the shift handle assembly for easier mounting and assembly. All orders received after July '07 will be shipped this new unit. SHIFTER ASSEMBLY The cockpit mounted shifter handle assembly is designed to be bolted in to any chassis. However the shift handle / cable mount distance & orientation are maintained. After bolting the shift lever assembly to the chassis and the rear cable bracket to the transmission, measure the distance between the front and rear cable housing anchoring points (not rod ends) with a piece of rope or wire following along the path the cables will be routed through the car. The cable that attaches to the shifter handle goes to the shift lever on the rear cover and the other will go to the bell crank. Avoid tight bends for best results. Measure the rope length for each cable and add 15 ¼” to the length measured. Round up the resulting dimension to the nearest inch for each cable. This will be the overall length of the cables needed. PBS recommends: Control Cables, Inc. 9816 Alburtis Ave. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (562) 949-0455. These will be Cablecraft push-pull cables. The part number for these cables is 173-LTT-3-(length in inches overall). This specifies a ¼ inch cable with threaded bulkhead style mounts on both ends with a (3”) three inch stroke. Note that the length includes the complete cable assembly except for the rod ends which will be screwed onto the cable ends (they are supplied with the kit). These cables can usually be made up within one day and shipped UPS to any destination. At this point, the cables can be installed and adjusted for length. Lengths can be altered by adjusting either the cable housing mounting nuts or by adjusting the rod ends on the cable ends. The shifter handle can be set to a comfortable upright position. Holding it to the left and moving it forward and backward should engage 1st and 2nd gears. Moving the shifter handle to the right will allow engagement of 3rd and 4th gears respectively. Remember that the axles may need to be rotated to allow engagement of the various gears. At this point, tighten all of the cable locknuts and rod end jam nuts and your PBS cable shifter installation is complete! Reverse has a separate control handle, it may be mounted in any convent position in the car. The cable length is determined in the same manner as the shift unit except the cable will only require a (1") one inch throw. The part number will be 173-LTT-1 (length in inches overall). Measure the rope length for this cable and add 8 ¼” to the length measured. Round up the resulting dimension to the nearest inch for the cable. This will be the overall length of the cable needed. 1-26-09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmor Posted December 15, 2009 Share Posted December 15, 2009 OK. Found the one for me. Now just need to find out how much it costs. THis looks pretty sweet. RD4 TRANSMISSION The PBS RD-4 Transaxle is designed to combine the wide 85mm PQS-4 shaft spacing, with the length of a 2-D type transmission. This allows it to be adapted to cars designed for the length of the 2-D while providing greatly enhanced durability. The 65.65mm shaft spacing on the 2-D type gearboxes limits the strength of the gears (especially reverse) and also limits the available size of the differential assembly. The RD-4 uses the same heavy duty main case as the PBS PQH-4 and PQS-4 transaxles, but with ¾” wide 1st thru 4th driven gears. The reverse gears are the same large diameter as the H-4 and S-4 reverse with ½” wide gear engagement. These gear sets are combined with a compact version of the well proven PBS Cable shifter mechanism. This makes the gearbox short enough to have the overall length compatible with cars designed for the 2D transaxle. SPECIFICATIONS 4 SPEED MEDIUM DUTY "H" PATTERN 4 Speed plus high strength reverse Internal reverse lockout (requires neutral selection prior to reverse) Output flanges for 930 CV joints with light duty dana 40 differential Output flanges for 934/935 CV joints with heavy duty dana 60 differential Dog gear engagement Standard gear placement The 85mm spacing allows the option of using either the 2-D size (Dana 44 based differentials) with 930 drive flanges, or the larger PBS designed Dana 60 based diff which has the 934/935 axle flanges. A 1 3/16”-18 tooth spline is provided on the standard RD-4 input shaft. This is compatible with the basic standard type 9” bell housing supplied with many 2-D and S-4 style transaxles. Also the RD-4 can be supplied with the PBS/LS1 bell housing or the Outfront Motorsports bell housings designed for either a hydraulic throw out unit or cable clutch actuator (VW type) assembly for Subaru engines. If the PBS/LS1 bell housing is selected the input shaft will be supplied with the 26 tooth Chevy fine spline, allowing the use of the stock Camaro clutch and flywheel assy, this unit also allows a stock Chevy starter to be used. Any Ring and Pinion gear set available from Weddle Industries may be used. The pinion shaft is shortened and rethreaded to fit the shorter RD-4 application Available Ratios are: 4.13 4.57 4.63 4.86 5.13 5.43 Reverse rotation 5.13 and 5.43 Currently the following gear ratios are available: 1st 3.08 13/40 2nd - 3rd - 4th Gears2.45 18/44 2.0 18/36 2.12 17/36 2.22 18/40 1.79 19/34 1.65 20/33 1.5 16/24 1.31 23/30 1.21 25/30 The reverse gear ratio is 2.93 which is the same as the H-4 and S-4 transaxles. All gears are straight cut and engagement uses dog rings with 6 dogs. Theses are the same dog rings as are used in the H-4 and S-4 transaxles The RD-4 transaxle is supplied with a PBS cable shifter shift handle assembly and a separate reverse shift lever assembly which also uses a cable. These are readily adapted to cars with either mid engine or rear engine configurations by simply selecting the appropriate cable length and routing. The internal shifter mechanism in the RD-4 incorporates a reverse lockout feature which prevents selecting both reverse and a forward gear simultaneously. Putting the gearbox in neutral with the 4 speed selector allows reverse to be engaged with the separate lever. When reverse is disengaged the forward gears may be engaged in any order. When in any forward gear reverse may not be engaged. Size comparison with 2D Gear stack Mounted in car Rear Shifter Assembly Shifter Front Shifter Assembly PBS has redesigned the shift handle assembly for easier mounting and assembly. All orders received after July '07 will be shipped this new unit. SHIFTER ASSEMBLY The cockpit mounted shifter handle assembly is designed to be bolted in to any chassis. However the shift handle / cable mount distance & orientation are maintained. After bolting the shift lever assembly to the chassis and the rear cable bracket to the transmission, measure the distance between the front and rear cable housing anchoring points (not rod ends) with a piece of rope or wire following along the path the cables will be routed through the car. The cable that attaches to the shifter handle goes to the shift lever on the rear cover and the other will go to the bell crank. Avoid tight bends for best results. Measure the rope length for each cable and add 15 ¼” to the length measured. Round up the resulting dimension to the nearest inch for each cable. This will be the overall length of the cables needed. PBS recommends: Control Cables, Inc. 9816 Alburtis Ave. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (562) 949-0455. These will be Cablecraft push-pull cables. The part number for these cables is 173-LTT-3-(length in inches overall). This specifies a ¼ inch cable with threaded bulkhead style mounts on both ends with a (3”) three inch stroke. Note that the length includes the complete cable assembly except for the rod ends which will be screwed onto the cable ends (they are supplied with the kit). These cables can usually be made up within one day and shipped UPS to any destination. At this point, the cables can be installed and adjusted for length. Lengths can be altered by adjusting either the cable housing mounting nuts or by adjusting the rod ends on the cable ends. The shifter handle can be set to a comfortable upright position. Holding it to the left and moving it forward and backward should engage 1st and 2nd gears. Moving the shifter handle to the right will allow engagement of 3rd and 4th gears respectively. Remember that the axles may need to be rotated to allow engagement of the various gears. At this point, tighten all of the cable locknuts and rod end jam nuts and your PBS cable shifter installation is complete! Reverse has a separate control handle, it may be mounted in any convent position in the car. The cable length is determined in the same manner as the shift unit except the cable will only require a (1") one inch throw. The part number will be 173-LTT-1 (length in inches overall). Measure the rope length for this cable and add 8 ¼” to the length measured. Round up the resulting dimension to the nearest inch for the cable. This will be the overall length of the cable needed. 1-26-09 That would work for me too.but how much? I found that same link earler today. 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barefoot bob Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 according to ricky wright there a replacement for the 2d and the internals used are more compareable to the s4. if thats the casw with a weddle r&p you could run more ponies without the length problem the s4 has and yes it is the same blower they drag race and put on boats its a roots blower 8:71 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbolark Posted December 23, 2009 Share Posted December 23, 2009 according to ricky wright there a replacement for the 2d and the internals used are more compareable to the s4. if thats the casw with a weddle r&p you could run more ponies without the length problem the s4 has And they are supposed to shift like butter! I ws going to get one for my DD car, but i found the S5 instead for a steal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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