Jump to content

Lifan Motor Upgrade


JVZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

Heres my parts list from DrATV. I think I have everything I need to complete the project here based on reading this forum and DrATV's FAQ/recommended parts. All the extras add up quick.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ATC70_&_OTHERS 120CC-4A-T-E-BOTTOM/cat 1 365.00 CHAIN_TYPE = 420_291N

DREAM_ENGINE

IN_STOCK_NOW!!!

120cc_4_DOWN AUTO_CLUTCH

ELECTRIC_START

BOTTOM_STARTER

SUB_WIRE_HARNESS FOR SUB-W-1.5 1 18.95

ATC70_/_90_/_110

CONVERSIONS (SUB-W-1.5)

12V_or_6V CT70 REGULATOR SUB-W-12/12/6/6 1 12.99

RECTIFIER_PIGTAIL CLICK

FOR_INSTRUCTIONS

(SUB_W_12/12/6/6)

12_VOLT_BATTERY L=4_1/2" BTX4L-BS 1 44.95

W=2_13/16" H=3_3/8"

CT70_91_TO_94 (BTX4L_BS)

LEFT_TURNOUT 22MM TBQ22KIT 1 32.95

MANIFOLD_KIT

GREAT_FOR_SWAPS

(TBQ22KIT)

*CLIP_FOR_OEM FUEL_LINE 22A 4 0.88

FOR_10MM_OD 6/10A (B22A)

*OEM_FUEL_LINE OEM_FUEL_LINE 3 2.85

(SOLD_PER_FOOT)

3/16_ID_10MM_OD 11/10A

(OEM_FUEL_LINE)

INLINE FUEL PETCOCK 34I 1 12.99

OFF_ON_RES (34I)

*EXHAUST_DONUT B16C 1 2.69

ALLZ50_XR50_CRF

ALL_PASSPORT'S CT110_ALL

CT70_KO/82 ALL_CT200'S

TRX90_ALL LIFANs/CLONES

7/10C (B16C)

START/KILL/HORN BUTTON 253T 1 9.99

90º INLINE FUEL FILTER 707C 1 2.99

1/4" BARBS 7/10T (707C)

BLACK UNIVERSAL HEADLIGHT BK/UNI/HL 1 21.95

FOR BIKES AND ATC'S

(BK/UNI/HL)

HEADLIGHT MOUNTING 049Y 1 14.99

BRACKETS (sold_as_set)

(49Y)

THROTTLE CABLE SEE T-CABLE 1 8.95 PICK_YOUR_YEAR =

APPLICATIONS ATC90_1973-79_(8614)

Subtotal 561.46

Shipping 64.34

Tax 0.00

Total 625.80

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get a cheapo pipe off ebay that fits a crf50 or xr50 and slightly tweek it to work. That's what I did, but you get what you pay for. Usually the pipes are ok but the flange where it bolts on the head is cheap and bends.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=crf50+pipe&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Or you can spend a few bucks and get a nice one through Gordy at http://hondaatc70.com/Atc70parts.aspx

Or you can go through Sterdy Products. Sterdy's online store doesn't seem to be working properly right now, but you can pm tres hombre on GD or on here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ran into a few problems. The carb that came with the motor is not functional, the slide is stuck! I cant even get it out and if I do, its not going work if its that tight. Must be a defect.

Im not great at wiring and Im a little unsure on some of the wiring on the diagram. I see a lot more wires than the diagram shows, so are those just for accessories, not used?

My chain is now too short, so I gotta get some links.

Also curious what guage wires I should run for the battery positive to the solenoid, ground, etc...

I was trying to get this done and running for NYE weekend, but with the holidays and needing a new carb, might not happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those Chinese carbs. are junk! Mine kept losing parts and bending valves, so I replaced it with a mikuni. If you are interested you can have mine for parts or use. It still works and I think everything that can fit down the intake and cause damage has already done so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well Ive worked through most of the problems.... think Im going with the Mikuni carb to avoid the current ( leaking bowl) and future problems with the cheap chinese carb. Motor is wired for the most part, still not starting but havent had time to diagnose. The cobra under pipe does fit and is mounted. Just need to get this b@#ch started and running

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have under pipe on my elec starts. should work fine. Yes the Mikuni is the one to get. 22mm for the 120. also you might have to beat out the tank.

Paul,......yours is the sterdy under pipe / I had it modified to clear the starter....they dont come stock like that

:poule:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

At last, project is complete. I took it out to the Dry Lake bed for a little test and tune shakedown and it definately rips! Im amazed at the difference in power and the fun factor just tripled. The project definately required more time, parts, and trial and error than I anticipated but was worth it. A couple of things I learned along the way, the Cobra under exhaust does work and will clear the starter (also sounds great). The chinese carbs that come with them are not very good quality. The one I received had a stuck slide right out of the box, bowl leaked, and lost the screw on the choke plate (not while it was running thankfully). So I ordered a Mikuni VM 20 carb which I was told was actually bigger than the Chinese 22-24mm carbs (Hondaatc70.com), I put the Mikuni on and it is not only easier to tune, makes it run better, but it give the tank more clearance. I put the new motor in with the carb and manifold spacer on and still cleared the tank. The only thing I had to do was bend the reserve fitting on the tank straight down. No hammering, welding or any other modifications. Also, I read that using a hotter plug NGK C6HSA is better and should eliminate any fouling issues, which I do have. Im putting the new plug and will retest, so we will see.

post-7432-0-28146700-1327976721_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At last, project is complete. I took it out to the Dry Lake bed for a little test and tune shakedown and it definately rips! Im amazed at the difference in power and the fun factor just tripled. The project definately required more time, parts, and trial and error than I anticipated but was worth it. A couple of things I learned along the way, the Cobra under exhaust does work and will clear the starter (also sounds great). The chinese carbs that come with them are not very good quality. The one I received had a stuck slide right out of the box, bowl leaked, and lost the screw on the choke plate (not while it was running thankfully). So I ordered a Mikuni VM 20 carb which I was told was actually bigger than the Chinese 22-24mm carbs (Hondaatc70.com), I put the Mikuni on and it is not only easier to tune, makes it run better, but it give the tank more clearance. I put the new motor in with the carb and manifold spacer on and still cleared the tank. The only thing I had to do was bend the reserve fitting on the tank straight down. No hammering, welding or any other modifications. Also, I read that using a hotter plug NGK C6HSA is better and should eliminate any fouling issues, which I do have. Im putting the new plug and will retest, so we will see.

No joke. I've been shaking mine down as well. Found a loose ground connector causing all kinds of headaches. So much fun though! I was attempting a donut in some gravel and about 180* into it, the tires caught some traction, and I wheelied it nearly into my fence :headbang1: . Definetly has more power...maybe too much for me apparently :laughing:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • VIP RV

×
×
  • Create New...