Squirrel702 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 (edited) What would I have to do to make my 1776 into a 2180 or would it be better to just make it a 1915cc. Looking for HP, I have duel 40mm Dellartos on the 1776 and there is a cam in there just don't know which one just bought the rail and the guy did not remember. Also roughly what would the cost be on doing this. Also I found this in another forum site where this guy was talking about turbo. I would like to turbo but thinking of heat issues but this is what the guy said. "A turbo from a 300zx or 280zx (T3) with the built-in wastegate set at 8 psi and a single SU carb from a 240Z will make that little bug engine come to life. And these parts can be found at your local "You-Pull-It" type junk yard for less than 100.00. Then do a little pipe fabrication, run a oil line and drain line to the turbo, lock the distributor at 25 degrees, fab the carb linkage and air cleaner, and drive. And you don't need a muffler with a turbo, since a turbo is considered a legal muffler. 8 psi of boost will turn a 60hp engine into a 95hp engine. But the biggest improvement will be the low rpm torque which will make the car feel much stronger than 95hp. Then later add some better heads and some higher lift rockers for a 80hp non-turbo engine, then 8 psi of boost will add 1.544 times the power for 125hp. Then later up to 10 psi boost for 135hp, which is a lot of hp for a bug". Thanks guys. Edited July 8, 2012 by Squirrel702 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp-guy Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 (edited) Speed costs $$$$$. Call a reputable company that sells turbo kits for VW's. Tell them what you have and what you want. To go bigger on the motor it will take machine work. The cylinder walls and crank area all need to be opened up for a bigger bore/stroke. You can always piece together a kit but are you sure it will all work when put together? My father in law had a 2180 turbo. He got the kit from Carcraft and it was night and day from his old 1776 motor. It was so much fun to drive when the boost came on. I would try to go up hills on just the rear tires. It was a 2 seat Chenowith. Beam car with about 6 inches of travel. Do your homework on the internet before spending any money. Research other options for motors and make sure the frame/transmission/shocks can all handle the modifications. If not your just wasting your money and a season in the sand. To see what cam you have-- Pull the oil pump off and you can see the cam. The numbers are stamped on the face of the cam gear. By pulling the pump off, I mean take the entire pump out. Not just removing the cover and 2 pump gears. The entire housing need to come off. There is a part out there for doing this and the project is not that hard and can be done in about an hour or so depending on your mechanical skills. It might be a little tougher since your motor is mid-engine. Edited July 8, 2012 by bp-guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Your headed down a long expensive road my friend. As I said in my earlier post I've already been down that road. If you want to go faster then go ahead with a Subaru. Get your tranny rebuilt stronger or get a bus trans with IRS to get to at least a mid travel. I'm telling you that you will spend the same money in the long run trying to get your VW to go as fast as it sounds like you want to go. Just trying to help....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 I do have a bus trans with IRS rear end from what I was told. I find Subaru motors complete for about 800 to 1000. Includes wires turbo everything. I take It I would need some sort of adapter plate from motor to trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Yup, adapter plate special wiring harness from Outback, shallow oil pan and other work. I bought one last year and decided it would be too much trouble to change it from the VW even though I should have. But I still have a car that is fast enough for me but due to limited suspension I still can't keep up with most skilled drivers and their bigger cars. Research before you spend I think Tim told you. Ideas are fun to come up with and neat to plan but reality is money...money...money. If you have the bucks and the time then fo for your dream. One last thing. If you are new to a sand rail and to dumont then leave that car alone for one season to learn how to read the dunes and get used to the difference from a quad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Hell like I said I would be happy at 130 Hp since the car is only just 800 pounds wet. Also any Idea on how I can get a little more travel from the rear end. I think I was told on this car it was at 6" with these Marvin Shaw shocks , would love to be at 10 or 12" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Here is some thing for you guys. I am going to be dumping 2000 into to it in about two months. What would you guys do? Now first thing, I have replaced most of the rubber/boots, rebuilt the carbs and some other small things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegas style Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 before you spend a bunch of money here is something to look at. http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/rvs/3126257823.html even if he doesn't know the difference between a saturn and a subaru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 I don't like those types of front ends plus mine looks a lot better than that which you can paint. Funny though damn thing says Saturn right on it lol. Plus if I was to buy that what would I do with the one I have now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) Ok I am tired of these carbs. I sat there for 2 hours turning this and turning that and I don't know what I am doing and I read but still don't know if I am doing the right thing. So who can I pay on here to sync my carbs and get this thing running right or how much for fuel injection. Edited July 9, 2012 by Squirrel702 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeDuner Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 If that pic in your avatar is your rail, you don't have a bus box, you have a swing axle. Sounds like you have been misinformed on a lot of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Well this sucks. Is a swing axle good though. Also anything on the carbs. I will pay do get this running right or if there is somewhere I can take it that's not going to take the bank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raspadoo Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Swing axle is not ideal, especially if you want more travel. before you play with the carbs, take 20min to adjust the valves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydew Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 looked like a swing axle to me too, but wasn't 100% sure. Limited travel is the first issue. I fabbed up a turbo setup on my first car as well, but I had issues from day one. never got it running great, and when it did, i had to be real careful not to get it too hot. If I were to go back in time, I'd of paid for a professionally built turbo motor, or I'd have just committed to a subie or ecotech. Before considering turbos, engines, trans, suspension uprgades, I'd suggest just duning what ya got and making a fun time of it. I dumped more like $20k in mine. Started with a beam car, and upgrade by upgrade, you get deeper and deeper. Before you head down that road, I'd agree with sandawg, to learn the dunes, see how you like the car feel, and possibly consider purchasing a little more car down the road sometime. It is a buyers market right now, and looks like it will be for quite some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp-guy Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 The swing axel is fine. As long as it was built right it can handle some decent horsepower. The downside is lack of travel. Your not going to get much more than what you have right now. Have you driven the car in the dunes yet? You might want to try and get out on an early morning ride and see if the car even performs like you expect it to. That car has alot of potential but it will not perform like a long travel car by any means. Learning what that car can and can not do is the trick and just have fun with what you have. As far as syncing the carbs, It's not too hard but you need the correct sync tool. The one with the big dial that moves up, not the cheesy one with the ball that floats in a tube. Try a youtube search on how to sync them. Once you get the correct info on how to do them they are pretty easy to sync up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) This thread and the other about his new rail should be combined into one since a lot of info is duplicated and people are saying the same thing to him in different threads.. Edited July 9, 2012 by sandawg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Wow I can't believe how helpful ppl are here its real nice. Well I have been to the dunes many times but with friends, one friend with his brand new Tatum car and all I can say is holy shi! I had fun. The carbs are a pain need fuel injections but i do know once there set up its real nice. I do want to go but damn its hot. Buddy and I are thinking of Coral Pink in a couple of weeks should be ok up there. All my friends are telling me the same thing just go out and have fun which I will but I am the guy that wants more. Well off to work on carbs some more and adjust the valves if they need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squirrel702 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 This thread and the other about his new rail should be combined into one since a lot of info is duplicated and people are saying the same thing to him in different threads.. Sorry about that SandDawg was looking for info on different things but ended up talking about everything cause I have so many ?'s. Trying to learn as much as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19th_AT Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Cant stress enough how important the valve adjustment is before you even start with those carbs. I adjusted, doublechecked, drank a beer and then checked again. As far as syncing the dual carbs.... a laser/infared thermometer is a MUST along with the carb tool. Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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