desertrider71 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Does anyone run water wetter and distilled water only in their toys ? I'm on the fence about doing this with my rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FE135 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I also add 20-25% anti freeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUn2it Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 antifreeze isn't a good coolant, it just raises the boiling point and lowers the freeze point. Distilled alone will cool better that distilled and coolant but without water wetter or coolant your water pump seals will fail sooner. All the race trucks from LOORRS short course use distilled and their favorite water tension breaker (Redline etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertrider71 Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thank you guys for the replies ! I'm leaning towards giving a go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I have a couple friends who have used it in their dual sport bikes. They claim it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FE135 Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Anti freeze may not be a good coolant but it's an excellent preventer of engines breaking in half when the temps go below freezing. It gets into the teens here in the mornings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUn2it Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 That's why I would do the same as you and run a little coolant just to get the freeze point down to around 10*F. Water wetter is alkaline and breaks the surface tension on metal, no boiling air bubbles. Most brands have water pump lubricant also. As a side note I haven't had a water pump seal failure since I started squirting syn GL5 oil up the weep holes on everything. Dang, Murphys law says now I will..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Rhino Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 I have a buddy that's all he runs. I'm too scared to lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertrider71 Posted November 22, 2014 Author Share Posted November 22, 2014 I bought some tonight and will use it like Neal does. I don't have a baseline to judge from so I won't be able to report how well it works as T day weekend will be the maiden voyage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsWeeks Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 All I run in my v8 rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raspadoo Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Tried it once in a ktm, within 10 minutes into a national hare and hound the water transferred from cooling system to the trans via the water pump shaft seal, kept adding water and found out how tough a motorcycle trans is The two could have been totally unrelated but it was enough for me to not use it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Svengoolie Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 "Just raising the boiling point" is pretty important. Many of those race trucks (and cars) are also running 30 psi + in their cooling systems. (To raise the boiling point) Nascar runs up to 60psi and sometimes water temps hit 265F. It's not 265 that melts motors, it's the internal boiling and cavitation that stops exchanging heat. If I was having cooling issues, I would increase cooling capacity. Maybe a more powerful fan, bigger radiator, higher flow water pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUn2it Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 "Just raising the boiling point" is pretty important. Many of those race trucks (and cars) are also running 30 psi + in their cooling systems. (To raise the boiling point) Nascar runs up to 60psi and sometimes water temps hit 265F. It's not 265 that melts motors, it's the internal boiling and cavitation that stops exchanging heat. If I was having cooling issues, I would increase cooling capacity. Maybe a more powerful fan, bigger radiator, higher flow water pump. Water wetter isn't a magic potion but it does help in the heat exchange and that's all it does, if your cooling is marginal (by 20* F) it can get the temps in the comfort zone. If you still have overheating issues then you do like Svengooloie says and add cooling capacity OR reduce the heat load which you shouldn't have with the size radiators in most LT cars unless you're pushing too much compression or advanced timing for the fuels octane rating you are using (really the AKI index) or even a gearing issue and running to low an RPM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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