barefoot bob Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 (edited) i have a 99 banshee bone stock never even have redone the top end, its getting time though shes long in the tooth. yamalube rocks !! however im not up on the latest mods to make my old girl beat up on yamy 450s and preds will piping jetting and a shaved head do it or does it need more i was considering fmf fatties with jetting and plane the head down ( more compression) any other suggestions or am i off base i dont want to run with 450s i want to beat them. soundly. but i dont want an ill temperd bike that doesnt like to run any suggestions and while im at ti my wife has the raptor 660 what can i do to make it beat up preds ??? Edited November 2, 2006 by bearfoot bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 T-5's, Cool Head, Porting Polishing, Reed spacers, Proper Tune. but if your going to tear it down to put a new top end in it why not do it right.. 370 Long Rod kit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lvnalolife Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 T-5's, Cool Head, Porting Polishing, Reed spacers, Proper Tune. but if your going to tear it down to put a new top end in it why not do it right.. 370 Long Rod kit.. I agree with most of that. But if you still want it reliable... T-5's, Cool Head w/ 19cc domes, Vforce3 Reeds, K&N Pro Flow intake, and while you are at it doing a top end, might as well bore it 20 over. It will be quick. Will have to run 100 octane. Mines been like this for the last 4 years. I have everything but the bore and am side by side with my buddies modded yfz and I'm fat! (not a typo!) Mine is a 98 with the stock top end. Gotta love that Yamalube at 32:1! It is tired though and still stays side by side. Compression is way low and getting harder to start the first run of the weekend, but after that starts first kick rest of the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 (edited) IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO KEEP THE MOTOR STOCK AND JUST GET PIPES AND JETTING, GO WITH THE TOOMEY T6's. THEY ARE THE BEST PIPES FOR STOCK BANSHEES. IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO TRICK OUT THE MOTOR AND GET PIPES, GO TO LRD GET IT PORTED, GO WITH THE CPI IN FRAME PIPES, GET A COOL HEAD, GET PISTONS, DUAL 33 CARBS, V FORCE REEDS, ALBA REED SPACERS, AND DUAL K&N FILTERS WITH OUTERWEARS. ALSO GET A SPARK PLUG LOCK TO KEEP THEM FROM TWISTING AND SHOOTING OUT. IF YOU JUST WANT TO GET PIPES, JETTING, AND A FILTER, I HAVE SOME TOOMEY T6's AND AIR FILTER FOR SALE IF MY BUDDY DOESN'T BUY THEM. THEY ARE IN GREAT SHAPE. HOPE THIS HELPED. Edited November 3, 2006 by Gazlay43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 (edited) so im kinda on the right track lil bigger bore cool head and pipes reeds intake i want to keep it dependable so ill leave out the long rod kit . and jett it with these mods what is a better all around dune pipe ( that still kills yfzs) the toomy or the fmf fatty? i was told the fatty with the crossover has good mid and low while the toomys are all top end ?? P.S> ya your right yamalube at 32:1 7 years on the same top end and worn out 1 set of paddles Edited November 3, 2006 by bearfoot bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b370 Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Ok I'll give my 2 cents here....... First off dont do a 370 long rod.... To do so you will need to either bore your cyls out to .080 over and run blaster pistons or stay at the stock bore and run the 795 series Wiseco pistons. Then also add in the long rod crank. It will give you a broader power curve, but not worth the expense (my opinion) Next.... Why bore your cyls if they are within specs? You will not gain anymore power by going to .020 over bore. If they need a clean up just go .010 over and save the extra bores on the cyls for later. As for pipes... T5's are the best "all around" pipe for stock to mildly modded machines. CPI's are more of a drag pipe with less low end, and are designed for very agressive port timings. The T6's are great for a "stock" machine. Once you start to mod the bike the T6's will not perform as well as say the T5's or other pipes on the market. Reed spacers will actually hurt performance since they will lower your crank case pressure and raise its volume, (velocity) when placed between the reed cage and the intake track. If placed between the reed cage and the carb boot it wont do much on a stock motor with stock carbs. The top things you should do would be either clamp on filters or the flange in the airbox to fix the poor filter design from Yamaha. Coolhead with custom cut domes (not off the shelf generic cuts), Fresh bore/pistons. Pipes of your choice...... And make sure you rejet! Just remember that if you decide to have it ported later.... the pipes you have may not work as well as another pipe, so find a builder that you can trust and go from there. I've done this several times over the years and wish I could go back and not waste $ on crap that doesnt work.. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynot Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Ok I'll give my 2 cents here....... First off dont do a 370 long rod.... To do so you will need to either bore your cyls out to .080 over and run blaster pistons or stay at the stock bore and run the 795 series Wiseco pistons. Then also add in the long rod crank. It will give you a broader power curve, but not worth the expense (my opinion) Next.... Why bore your cyls if they are within specs? You will not gain anymore power by going to .020 over bore. If they need a clean up just go .010 over and save the extra bores on the cyls for later. As for pipes... T5's are the best "all around" pipe for stock to mildly modded machines. CPI's are more of a drag pipe with less low end, and are designed for very agressive port timings. The T6's are great for a "stock" machine. Once you start to mod the bike the T6's will not perform as well as say the T5's or other pipes on the market. Reed spacers will actually hurt performance since they will lower your crank case pressure and raise its volume, (velocity) when placed between the reed cage and the intake track. If placed between the reed cage and the carb boot it wont do much on a stock motor with stock carbs. The top things you should do would be either clamp on filters or the flange in the airbox to fix the poor filter design from Yamaha. Coolhead with custom cut domes (not off the shelf generic cuts), Fresh bore/pistons. Pipes of your choice...... And make sure you rejet! Just remember that if you decide to have it ported later.... the pipes you have may not work as well as another pipe, so find a builder that you can trust and go from there. I've done this several times over the years and wish I could go back and not waste $ on crap that doesnt work.. Good luck For my 2 cents worth believe everything B370 just told you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80grit Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 Tommey T5’s for pipes are great until you go to the big bore after market cylinders Send the jugs to Trinity in southern cal and get a stage 4 port and polish. I would let them shave the stock head also. The only advantage the cool heads have is replaceable domes. The stage 4 port and polish will really wake it up. Bore it .010 over and save the other bores for later Set of used Kehein 34 or 35 mm carbs running cel needles 6 inch K& N Filters with outerwears V Force Reeds no spacer Dyna programmable ignition Most of this stuff you can get used at 50% of the “new” costs As long as your jetted right, you will rip and it will be very reliable. But you may want to also consider a plus 4 inch swingarm. Will be a little light in the front end with these mods ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted November 3, 2006 Author Share Posted November 3, 2006 (edited) Tommey T5’s for pipes are great until you go to the big bore after market cylinders Send the jugs to Trinity in southern cal and get a stage 4 port and polish. I would let them shave the stock head also. The only advantage the cool heads have is replaceable domes. The stage 4 port and polish will really wake it up. Bore it .010 over and save the other bores for later Set of used Kehein 34 or 35 mm carbs running cel needles 6 inch K& N Filters with outerwears V Force Reeds no spacer Dyna programmable ignition Most of this stuff you can get used at 50% of the “new” costs As long as your jetted right, you will rip and it will be very reliable. But you may want to also consider a plus 4 inch swingarm. Will be a little light in the front end with these mods ? my worries (being that im old ) is when you used to port and polish your bike it became diffacult to start. i want it to start as easily as it does now and beat the pants off predators and yfzs do you have a link where i could find some of these parts i believe the banshees run a 33 mm carb is stepping up going to be a pain to start it . is there a givin thousanths to trim off head to get proper compresion. does trinity do that ?? i run 100LL fuel in my buggy ( i have to) so i already have the fuel. i take it the fmf fatties do not perform properly. the t5s will perform on port polish increased compression and larger carbs ?? or do i go to t6 ?? lastley do you have a number for trinity. im already running the k&n filter with adapter that has the o ring and bolts into the old air box its the only mod that bike ever got and it was done at berts befor it left the store thanks guys for all these tips im forming up an opinion of what i need. with this a lil more info and ill send her in for surgery. and im definately going to twist grip i have thumblock on that thing after 1 min or 10 feet which ever comes first maybe trinity can ease my fears about an ill starting bike i'll sell it before ill except it. itsa pet peave of mine. and a bike chassi dyno shop ??? Edited November 3, 2006 by bearfoot bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80grit Posted November 3, 2006 Share Posted November 3, 2006 my worries (being that im old ) is when you used to port and polish your bike it became diffacult to start. i want it to start as easily as it does now and beat the pants off predators and yfzs =I’ve never seen a quality port and polish make a banshee difficult to start. I’ve seen a wrong pilot jet installed make a banshee hard to start. Just choke one of the carbs on super cold days or nights. Run the kick starter down 3 times slowly to let the charge enter the cylinder, then give it a hard kick and vroom. do you have a link where i could find some of these parts i believe the banshees run a 33 mm carb is stepping up going to be a pain to start it . is there a givin thousanths to trim off head to get proper compresion. does trinity do that ?? i run 100LL fuel in my buggy ( i have to) so i already have the fuel. =Banhees stock use a 28 mm Mikuni carb. I run 38 mm Keihns and it starts first time everytime. Trinity can shave the head. Id stay around 170 lbs of compression on a gas dune bike. You could run your 100 octane in it or you could cut it 50-50 92 octane and VP C12. Links: http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...ge/2#Post572646 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-FMF...046304206QQrdZ1 http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...e/12#Post565872 http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...e/20#Post564618 http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...e/21#Post565191 http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...e/31#Post557011 http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...e/38#Post554068 i take it the fmf fatties do not perform properly. the t5s will perform on port polish increased compression and larger carbs ?? or do i go to t6 ?? =Its kinda splitting hairs. They are all pretty good. The t5’s will give you more on the top end where Banshees make their horsepower. A stock banshee will run about 40 mph up the long comp hill at Dumont. These mods will get you around 55 mph. The difference between the t5 and fmf’s might be 1 mph. gearing is 1mph, tires might be 1-2 mph, tire pressure 1 mph. Either way you will be around 55give or take a couple mph’s. Id get the t5’s used but if you get a smoking deal on the fmfs…. lastley do you have a number for trinity. im already running the k&n filter with adapter that has the o ring and bolts into the old air box its the only mod that bike ever got and it was done at berts befor it left the store thanks guys for all these tips im forming up an opinion of what i need. with this a lil more info and ill send her in for surgery. =Id lose the air box To hard to get to the carbs to work on. This is the set up Trinitys # is 877 327-8697 James is the guy I use down there and is very knowledgeable and im definately going to twist grip i have thumblock on that thing after 1 min or 10 feet which ever comes first maybe trinity can ease my fears about an ill starting bike i'll sell it before ill except it. itsa pet peave of mine. and a bike chassi dyno shop ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) my worries (being that im old ) is when you used to port and polish your bike it became diffacult to start. i want it to start as easily as it does now and beat the pants off predators and yfzs do you have a link where i could find some of these parts i believe the banshees run a 33 mm carb is stepping up going to be a pain to start it . is there a givin thousanths to trim off head to get proper compresion. does trinity do that ?? i run 100LL fuel in my buggy ( i have to) so i already have the fuel. i take it the fmf fatties do not perform properly. the t5s will perform on port polish increased compression and larger carbs ?? or do i go to t6 ?? lastley do you have a number for trinity. im already running the k&n filter with adapter that has the o ring and bolts into the old air box its the only mod that bike ever got and it was done at berts befor it left the store thanks guys for all these tips im forming up an opinion of what i need. with this a lil more info and ill send her in for surgery. and im definately going to twist grip i have thumblock on that thing after 1 min or 10 feet which ever comes first maybe trinity can ease my fears about an ill starting bike i'll sell it before ill except it. itsa pet peave of mine. and a bike chassi dyno shop ??? Our banshee is pretty tricked and it starts 1st kick every time. Go to trinityracing.com and the number is on the site Edited November 5, 2006 by Gazlay43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) Our banshee is pretty tricked and it starts 1st kick every time. Go to trinityracing.com and the number is on the site ANY ADVICE GIVEN TO BAREFOOT BOB WILL BE DEALT WITH SWIFTLY!!! :yeah_whatever: BETTER CALL THE DENTIST, THERE WILL BE TEETH LOSS :talk030: Edited November 5, 2006 by Bound4Dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 ANY ADVICE GIVEN TO BAREFOOT BOB WILL BE DEALT WITH SWIFTLY!!! :yeah_whatever: BETTER CALL THE DENTIST, THERE WILL BE TEETH LOSS :talk030: :talk030: there is my first victem after its done . predator stew !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) :talk030: there is my first victem after its done . predator stew !!!!! :yeah_whatever: About time you got home... oh yea..... I'll run Arco 87 to make it fair Edited November 5, 2006 by Bound4Dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 About time you got home... oh yea..... :yeah_whatever: I'll run Arco 87 to make it fair you better just keep it in the garage so you dont get spanked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) you better just keep it in the garage so you dont get spanked If you prefer, I'll run Valero 87 gas :yeah_whatever: What ever makes you feel comfortable... Or if you prefer, I can give you the normal handycap (1/2 acre) start. Your call Edited November 5, 2006 by Bound4Dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 the cool head is a big advantage because it wont overheat as easily if at all. i overheated mine at coral pink on a good hard ride before i installed the cool head. also run an inline cooler. stock carbs are the way to go with clamp on k and n's with outerwears. and of course proper jets. jet changing is a breeze this way without the damn air box. going budget a shaved head does make a difference. and yes overboring beyond necesity is a waste. porting makes a big difference on the top end but dont expect anymore power just duning. i tried 34mm kein's and the motor drowned in gas. leave those for the modified dragsters. i have a couple of shaved heads if you want to try one. cheap horspower. oh ya. get the spark plug lock. i let my boy ride my banshee for the first time and one plug loosened up just enough because of the way he rode it that the motor disintegrated. check out old post under scattered motor for pics. running a 12 tooth front sprocket will help. i have the reed spacers too but i dont know if they helped or hurt because i made alot of changes all at once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northphelan Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Rudy Kurtz is one of the best engine builders in the country.his shop is called port magic.he is in Hesperia.244-8834,give him a call Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Rudy Kurtz is one of the best engine builders in the country.his shop is called port magic.he is in Hesperia.244-8834,give him a call That's just wrong..... This thread is costing me money.... :yeah_whatever: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barefoot bob Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) the cool head is a big advantage because it wont overheat as easily if at all. i overheated mine at coral pink on a good hard ride before i installed the cool head. also run an inline cooler. stock carbs are the way to go with clamp on k and n's with outerwears. and of course proper jets. jet changing is a breeze this way without the damn air box. going budget a shaved head does make a difference. and yes overboring beyond necesity is a waste. porting makes a big difference on the top end but dont expect anymore power just duning. i tried 34mm kein's and the motor drowned in gas. leave those for the modified dragsters. i have a couple of shaved heads if you want to try one. cheap horspower. oh ya. get the spark plug lock. i let my boy ride my banshee for the first time and one plug loosened up just enough because of the way he rode it that the motor disintegrated. check out old post under scattered motor for pics. running a 12 tooth front sprocket will help. i have the reed spacers too but i dont know if they helped or hurt because i made alot of changes all at once. hmmm inceased compression increased heat were your bikes over heating while duning with shaved heads ???? also with limited mods you refer to can it wup a piped and jetted pred or yami 450 ??? how much for the head ??and phelan ill ask around and check with rudy im also going to talk to trinity. but rudy is right nextdoor to me im here in apple valley and ron your screwed no matter what. you and gregg started this whole bike mess. i was content but nooo you guys gotta buy those stupid preds . and rattle my cage now you will pay............................................. Edited November 5, 2006 by bearfoot bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 hmmm inceased compression increased heat were your bikes over heating while duning with shaved heads ???? also with limited mods you refer to can it wup a piped and jetted pred or yami 450 ??? and phelan ill ask around and check with rudy im also going to talk to trinity. but rudy is right nextdoor to me im here in apple valley I did hear that about shaved heads. You had to do something with the cooling? Check it out. :yeah_whatever: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 hmmm inceased compression increased heat were your bikes over heating while duning with shaved heads ???? also with limited mods you refer to can it wup a piped and jetted pred or yami 450 ??? how much for the head ?? and phelan ill ask around and check with rudy im also going to talk to trinity. but rudy is right nextdoor to me im here in apple valley and ron your screwed no matter what. you and gregg started this whole bike mess. i was content but nooo you guys gotta buy those stupid preds . and rattle my cage now you will pay............................................. ya. it overheated with the shaved head but i was running hard following dune freak on his bike. it blew the coolant out of the resovoir tank. havent had a problem with the cool head and inline cooler. i'll take 30 bucks for the head if you want to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northphelan Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 I had Rudy bore my stock carbs to 30mm for 60 bucks.most people don't know you can do that.i think thats one of the cheapest mods you can do to a banshee that actually makes alot of hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 how did it dune after the carb bore job? did it bog at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bound4Dirt Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 (edited) hmmm inceased compression increased heat were your bikes over heating while duning with shaved heads ???? also with limited mods you refer to can it wup a piped and jetted pred or yami 450 ??? how much for the head ?? and phelan ill ask around and check with rudy im also going to talk to trinity. but rudy is right nextdoor to me im here in apple valley and ron your screwed no matter what. you and gregg started this whole bike mess. i was content but nooo you guys gotta buy those stupid preds . and rattle my cage now you will pay............................................. For the gas I burn "pay" to roast you...That's a fair trade.... I'll put my 13T on ($20 mod) and roast you, then have wife take a picture and post it.... :yeah_whatever: Edited November 6, 2006 by Bound4Dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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