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Dual Battery Wiring


VegasPredator
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I just added a second battery to my Toy Hauler this weekend. It seems as though my gauge always read fair condition on the batteries. I started thinking about the way it is wired and now think it is not wired correctly. I bought 2 new battery cables and connected the negative from the new battery to the negative on the existing battery and the same with the positive to positive. I left the trailer wires connected to the existing battery. I know this is correct for parallel, but I think what I need to do is disconnect one fo the leads from the trailer that goes to the first battery and put it on the new battery, thus forcing all current through both batteries instead of one battery trying to charge the other. Can anyone shed some light on this?

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Nope, just striaght parrallel is fine.

HMMM... WingNut had the same problem I did. I wonder if it is the panel not the battery levels? The levels never seemed low when starting the gen but a few times it went down to poor on the gauge.

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when I bought my trailer, the two 12 v batteries were connected like the diagram below

post-457-1168369358.jpg

Now i have the 2 six volts in series, and it looks like this

post-457-1168369334.jpg

That is exactly what I was looking for.. That is what I thought it should be wired like but mine is not like that.

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Will do when I need to change out batteries. At this point the trailer is only like 3 months old.

my batteries crapped out within a year and 1/2

I took the trailer on the first trip with the 6volts, and man. I didn't have to recharge the batteries once the entire trip.

granted, my son watched a few movies, and the wife had to run the genny for the mwave , hair dryer and coffee pot, but I didn't need to run the genny directly to charge the batteries

had ALL the outside flood lights on (6) , the stereo cranked, and a couple lights on inside for about 6 hours , and the battery level still showed good.

im gonna figure out a way to hook up another bank of 6 volts

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WOW.. I heard the 6V setup is awsome because the size of the blades inside are larger then 12V but did not know it was that good. I will look in to the 6V setup and see what it costs. Right now I am buying a new house and in vegas that is not cheap. Conserving money for the riding instead of the upgrades :D

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WOW.. I heard the 6V setup is awsome because the size of the blades inside are larger then 12V but did not know it was that good. I will look in to the 6V setup and see what it costs. Right now I am buying a new house and in vegas that is not cheap. Conserving money for the riding instead of the upgrades :D

my 6volts cost less that it would have been to replace with the group 24 12v batteries.

costco has the kirkland brand 6 volts for 62.99 each, while the 12v were 79.99 each.

Kragen has some smaller 6v for 49.99 each too, but I haven't tried them yet.

I was still able to use my stock battery boxes too, even though the 6v'/s were a little taller than the 12vs

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is exactly what I was looking for.. That is what I thought it should be wired like but mine is not like that.

ok for parallel hook up i know its pos to pos and neg to neg but does it really matter if both the leads going to the trailer go from one battery? or should i hook it up like the diagram above??

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My 12v are hooked up like in the diagram. I doubt if it makes a difference how they are wired, the results are the same. The jumpers from + to + and - to - are the same gauge as the trailers power wires. Smaller cables = more resistance.

With the 12v batts hooked in parallel, power will be drawn from the stronger of the two. The 6v batts work together and charge together.

Remember, batteries require maintenance. I remove them from the trailer and add water if needed and put each on a float charger between trips. Checking the charge with a hydrometer before each trip will tell if they are good to go. Avoid plugging in the trailer when stored to keep the batts charged. UNLESS you are sure the power transformer in the trailer has a charge regulator to protect from overcharging. Most trailers charge at a constant rate and will boil off the electrolyte, damaging the battery. They will last a long time if cared for.

Never trust your trucks charging system to charge the batteries when you drive! It has alot more to worry about before it gets to the trailer.

It's great to have a good generator and good batteries, but, I'd rather have a dead generator and good batteries than a good generator and dead batteries!

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I have six 6-volt batteries, four 2ftx4ft solar panels, solar boost controller etc, and can give you the battery 101 if you want, no BS either, and your batteries will last 5 years, mine are from '01 or '02 and I never ran my gen untill a put a 37" HiDef widescreen in, now I might run it for 20 or 30 min at night if surfing the tube alot. 1) everytime you discharge your battery(ies) more than 50% you are shortening their lifespan, better to charge more often for a shorter period of time. Oh yeah, 50% is 12.25 volts +-, not 6 volts. 2)the best batteries for RVing (and usually least expensive) are "traction" batteries, golf cart/'fork lift. Heavy thick plates, just use the 6v in pairs wired series, then wire each pair parallelwith another pair. Just imagine a 6v as half a battery when hooking them together. AND ALWAYS REMOVE <NEGATIVE> 1ST AND ATTACH <NEGATIVE> LAST. Do the POSITIVE 1st and touch the wrench to grounded metal and the least you'll do is ugly up a wrench but if any battery "gas" present .... there's a 3,000ft ceiling for civilian use above Dumont, remember the Hindenburg? Hydrogen gas. Wear something for your eyes also, screw your clothes. Back to the 50%, get a cheap $5.00 digital multimeter from Harbor Freight put it on the next voltage above 12v dc and stick the probes in 1 of your seldom used 12v light bulb sockets and leave it on, no excuses, and don't cook the batteries dry, cycling the batteries alot (discharge-charge-discharge) makes them gas and use H2O, and use distilled water only. If you want to minimize the gen run time get a big auto charger from Walmart, Costco, etc , wherever, that can charge 40-50 amps continuous w/200 amp boost for under $100.00 (gen rebuilds are more maybe), I'll "bump" my batteries for 10-15 min with 230 amps +- then 60-70 awhile so I don't trip the thermal overload in the big charger. If you want to ask/see or even show/tell (about batteries, otherwise I ain't that kinda guy, hah) look for the tilted up solar panels on a 33ft pusher/22ft enclosed. Was by the DDR balloon area, going to look for a dust friendlier area I think (cough)

Edited by RUn2it
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  • 2 months later...

copied and pasted from an rv/battery forum:

This is from an email I sent to Trojan battery in January.

The question

To: Technical@trojanbattery.com

Subject: Golf cart battery

Need you guys to help me out with a few questions.

1) Is there any advantage to using two 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series over two 12 volt deep cycle batteries in parallel in a RV application, and if so what are they.

2) Besides the number of cells what is difference in construction of a 6 volt golf cart battery like a T-105 and a 12 volt deep cycle battery. Of course in both cases I'm referring to Trojan batteries. (is there any other)

Thanks Sam Langford

The answer

Hello Sam:

The main advantage of using two 6 volt batteries connected in series is long life. They generally last about two times longer than 12 volt batteries. This is because 6 volt batteries have bigger and thicker plates that can better withstand the effects of deep cycling.

The main advantage of using two 12 volt batteries connected in parallel is backup. If one battery goes down, you will have the other battery to keep your system running. With two 6 volts, if one goes down then your entire 12 volt system is down.

In terms of capacity, if you get a couple of really good 12 volt, group 27 or higher, batteries then the runtime that you'll get out of the two systems is roughly the same.

If you need further assistance, please contact me.

Best regards,

Jim Le

Technical Support Engineer

800-423-6569 Ext. 301

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