Weekend Warrior Problems have started

[chris1223]

Okay, I just read thru that and have a question now. We have a spicket in the garage plumbed to our water softener. We fill our freshwater tank with already softened water, so, I assume we could bypass that addition, correct?? Could be 1 reason why we have never had any problems flushing out our black tank and why the freshwater lines remain clean and clear.

I do like the idea of adding the detergent, sounds reasonable, and we have always added lots and lots of water to the black tank just before dumping. Personally, I wouldn't want to stop using the "blue" stuff because that is an enzyme that starts to break down the waste before it ever gets to the dump in the first place, thus making it easier to flush out the not-so-solid-anymore-waste. (Sorry, YUCK!) Also, it's just plain logical to flush black 1st, then gray to help clear the lines/hose, doesn't everyone do it that way??

To answer the question - No.... It’s not about the soft water, it what the water softener liquid/powder does. Soft water is basically water without minerals in it - I don’t know if you live in Vegas, but our water is terrible (about 700 to 1000 PPM). This is why when you get nice new white clothes and you wash them a couple of times they look tinted(You can experiment with a new white shirt, never wear it and wash it a couple of times. Match with the same type of shirt that is new and you will see the effect). Even though the particulate matter is small in size it is porous, and when there are millions of them in every ounce of water they hold on to dirt and attach to items. When you dump the water softener powder/liquid in to the tanks it breaks down this particulate matter so nothing can stick to the physical object.

As far as the blue stuff breaking down the solid particles, that where the detergent comes in to play - it does that for you, and even better then the blue stuff. The bleach in the formula is what the sanitizer is - it kills germs, and better then anything else made/sold to the general public. When you go to a food establishment you would see a surprise in the dishwashers - Bleach and very hot water - That is all that is required by the health department, and what is used to clean everything(Some use Iodine).

When I fill my trailer, I use the soft water from the water softener machine from the house - It helps the soap come off allot quicker as opposed to the regular water, and that is important to me for the short showers. The reason it makes the soap come off faster because the particles are not present, so there is no "glue" to hold the soap to the skin - same thing with the tanks - the softener stops sh!t from sticking to the walls and the sensors....

Edited May 2, 2007 by chris1223

[dinicolady]

Thank you Chris for answering my question, you are a wealth of information!!

Yes, we do live in Vegas and believe you me, I know first hand the difference the home water softener has made in the soap scum (or lack thereof) department and mineral build up on the shower doors, sinks, even the dishwasher. I use much LESS detergent in the washing machine too, BTW. I have gone a step further and have an RO system in my kitchen and the fridge is plumbed to that for the ice/water dispenser. I also make my coffee, iced tea and cook with that water because, like you said, the "particulate matter" is still present and this filters the water passed the softener.

"As far as the blue stuff breaking down the solid particles, that where the detergent comes in to play - it does that for you, and even better then the blue stuff. The bleach in the formula is what the sanitizer is - it kills germs, and better then anything else made/sold to the general public."

I did not know the detergent works in the same manner as the "blue stuff", so that was very helpful! However, I did know that bleach is the best sanitizer. I keep a spray bottle with a bleach/water combo handy to clean counters, bathroom, sinks, etc. with and it makes sense to add it to the holding tanks. It just so happened my hubby got home while I had this thread up this afternoon, and I brought his attention to the GEO method. He had a good point about a box of Tide being cheaper than the enzyme additive and it sure will go a lot further, too!

In order to not completely hijack this thread, we are now sold on this GEO method for keeping the holding tanks, especially the black, fresh and free-flowing!!

[RUn2it]

As an addendum to tank draining, you have to crack open all the fausets to completely drain the water, if you don't there's no way to relieve the vacuum you're creating when you open the drain valve. Kinda like the "air gap" thing near/behind the house kitchen sink for the dishwasher. I crack the kitchen hot water faucet and my hot water tank empties when I open the drain valve, has to get air to replace the water from someplace. Oh yeah, same as the vent on your gas cans as another example. Sometimes there a "low point" water drains tucked away in an obscure place too.

[offroadracer]

As an addendum to tank draining, you have to crack open all the fausets to completely drain the water, if you don't there's no way to relieve the vacuum you're creating when you open the drain valve. Kinda like the "air gap" thing near/behind the house kitchen sink for the dishwasher. I crack the kitchen hot water faucet and my hot water tank empties when I open the drain valve, has to get air to replace the water from someplace. Oh yeah, same as the vent on your gas cans as another example. Sometimes there a "low point" water drains tucked away in an obscure place too.

:disco-dance: thanks...i read it in the manual..AFTER the freeze happened.. :disco-dance: :disco-dance:

[Ringleader(FF5)]

Two months with the new zip code....the water heater again......shrinking cabinet doors and leaky black water gate....Goin to the shop tomorrow.