Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 As u all know I have been looking at busa rails, heard about Sinister Sand Sports a while back and was wondering if they r any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Yes they are. Yoshi knows his stuff and has done quite a bit of R&D in his cars. They seem like very well engineered busa rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Feel free to give me a call if you want, I can give you any info you need, I know every inch of my rails and will prob. give you more info than you want as I talk a lot and really fast, lol My cell is 918-521-3736, feel free to call me up to 9pm your time, I'm up till about 11pm or later and i'm 2 hours ahead of you if you in Cali... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 i have a penny jar with a label that says buggy fund.. cant wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Here's a few pics of the latest 2 seater that left my shop a few days ago...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) ya i was just on ur site lookin at em that thing is SIK!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i there any other place 2 mount the radiator? Edited May 3, 2007 by Gazlay43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 ya i was just on ur site lookin at em that thing is SIK!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i there any other place 2 mount the radiator? I am actually working on some gas tanks that mount low and on the sides next to and behind the seats that have fuel bladders, that way I can mount a trunk in the rear and the radiator and custom oil cooler back there as well.I use top of the line radiators with really good fittings, I am not worried in the slightest about a hose coming off or I would have moved it, but It could be relocated to the back if you wanted a smaller gas tank. But just so you know, if a hose comes off, anywhere on the car wether it in the tail or the nose, the water will hit you one way or another, there's really no "safe" place for a radiator if your concerned about the hose coming off, and i've never seen or talked to anyone that personally saw a radiator issue, even in cars that were in rough tumbles. Mounting it anywhere else restricts the airflow and the possability of the water overheating and actually popping off a hose is more likely, IMO. Mike downs is working on a a few of my customers rails right now and is placing the fuel tank in front of the passengers feet, that would allow room in the rear for the radiator. The cockpit is pretty good size for a tank, I actually have a 112 wheelbase and a 90" track width. I don't call mine mini rails anymore, they are between a mini and a fullsize, I was told the tom pro car is very small compared to mine, at least 30 percent. My rail is actually a lot bigger than the pics show and the weight is 1250 pounds because all the tubing and plating in suspension to make it more durabile. I gear them lower though so they pull just as hard as a lighter rail, they just soak up the bumps better with the weight. I was blowing through some rather long and deep whoops in the black car last weekend between 90-100 mph and it was awesome.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 u sound like u know ur stuff but i was only asking cuz it just looks odd 2 me where it is at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) u sound like u know ur stuff but i was only asking cuz it just looks odd 2 me where it is at I spent a lot of time studying and researching stuff before I got into building rails, I don't know everything, but I do know every inch of my rail and can tell you why I have everything the way it is. We also custom build a lot of the parts since what was available has weaknesses, like the sprocket drive, it's got (2) 3.5 inch diameter bearings that are 1" thick, they are sealed and have oil seals for extra measure, the hole through the middle is offcenter so you loosen 2 pinch bolts and twist the internals to tighten the chain, no tensioner. We also make the bearing carriers, spindles, plunging u-joint axles and a lot of other things.I never thought it looked funny, besides the nose, up high is the best place. I have seen more rails and trucks with the high mount setup than I can count so I never felt I was doing something that was totally different with the placement... Edited May 3, 2007 by Yoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 im not saying there is anything wrong w/ it, it just looked odd at first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 im not saying there is anything wrong w/ it, it just looked odd at first Some people don't like it, it can be moved if a customer wanted it somewhere else, I just set it up to be as functional as possible and I believe that's the spot for it, but it really doesn't matter to me, I just do what I get paid to do cause it's the customers rail, not mine ok,..if someone wanted a pink one, i'd prob. tell them to find another builder, lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Yoshi got a question for ya... What is that big box between the AirFilters and Gas Tank? If thats the box i hear you talkin about that you stuff all the wiring and electronics in why couldnt you find somewhere else to place it... Move the gas tank down into that crevice about 6-8"'s and lay the radiator flat and slap on one of those suby intercooler scoops and put a puller fan underneath Just a idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Maybe something like?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) Yoshi got a question for ya... What is that big box between the AirFilters and Gas Tank? If thats the box i hear you talkin about that you stuff all the wiring and electronics in why couldnt you find somewhere else to place it... Move the gas tank down into that crevice about 6-8"'s and lay the radiator flat and slap on one of those suby intercooler scoops and put a puller fan underneath Just a idea I like the wiring box where it is, there are a bunch of plugs off the motor that are only so long and they all reach right into the box so they connectout of sight, everything from the stater cover on the left of the motor to the whatever that wire is that comes from the right of the motor. If I could move the gas tank to the front of the rail, or better yet down low on the sides and behind the seats, there would be plenty of room to put the radiator and oil cooler where the gas tank is. I do kinda like that black box you mounted up there, even though i'm sure it's suppose to be the radiator, I think it looks cool as a scoop which would allow me to angle the radiator inside the frame more and have the scoop direct air down to it, I may play with that.The most important thing to me about the placement of anything is, outside the lights, I want everything tucked inside the frame incase of a flip. I've seen rails that had minor rollovers that did no damage to the rail, but since the gas tank and/or radiator were outside the frame, they were damaged and the rail was stranded. That's why I don't run wings and why my tail tubing goes back so far when a lot of rail leave motors, gas tanks, radiators, etc. sticking out and able to be damaged in a flip... The pipe does stick out a bit in the rear, but that was a one time deal, my new headers are built so I can have the exhaust tuck in more on the right side of the tail instead of popping out the middle, I actually cut the can down about 6 inches to get it where it's at.... Edited May 3, 2007 by Yoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 just reread you post, that is suppose to be a scoop you drew, lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 do ur cars come with reverse and/or front brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 (edited) do ur cars come with reverse and/or front brakes? yerp, front hubs and beadlock wheels are now standard, the rotors bolt to the back of the hubs and the calipers bolt to brackets on the spindles. I have 2 reverse units, one is a reverse diff, the other is a reverse hub that is 30 pounds lighter and has less hp loss. It has no diff and I prefer the live axles, but you can have the diff for a grand more.. This is the reverse diff in one of my rails. I have a reverse hub in the shop if you want me to snap a picture off of it..... either unit has no chain tensioner, the unit piviots back to tighten up the chain.. Edited May 3, 2007 by Yoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 do u recommend the hub or the diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 just reread you post, that is suppose to be a scoop you drew, lol... Nobody ever said i was good at photoshop like you.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 do u recommend the hub or the diff? I prefer the live axle setup which is the hub version. I actually prefer the sprocket drive since it's the lightest and has the most hp, I don't need reverse, just getting out of the trailer and a lot of people feel the same. Now, if you plan on tight trails and/or want a turning brake, than the reverse diff is the unit for you. Just so you know, I have designed my frames to accept any of the 3 subframes, the motor has a set of spacers on one side of the motor, so if you want a sprocket drive at first to save some money and have the most hp, you can get it and purchase a subframe with a Jeffco unit later. The subframe has 4 bolts and the motor has 5 bolts so it's a swap that requires basic tools and no frame modification, you simply swap the motor spacers from one side to the other and your good. What's your intended use, sand, dirt, etc....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Nobody ever said i was good at photoshop like you.. lol,..you did fine, I thought it was a scoop which is why I liked the looks of it, now if it was suppose to be a radiator that would be different, lol.. And i'm not that good at photoshop either, I can place dots and lines here and there, sometimes squiggly, sometimes straight, depends on the weather... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Just so you know, I have designed my frames to accept any of the 3 subframes, the motor has a set of spacers on one side of the motor, so if you want a sprocket drive at first to save some money and have the most hp, you can get it and purchase a subframe with a Jeffco unit later. The subframe has 4 bolts and the motor has 5 bolts so it's a swap that requires basic tools and no frame modification, you simply swap the motor spacers from one side to the other and your good. NICE!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 NICE!!! Thank ya much, when I first started, I was building the frames in the jig and then pulling them out to hand align the motor and subframe depending on what they wanted, so I set the jig up to do al lthe motor mounts so they are all the same. All the tabs, from the shocks to the suspension to the motor to the seat's are done in the fixture so after it gets assembled in the jig, it's flipped for welding and ready for powdercoat. It works out great for the customers as well so they can save some money on the sprocket drive setup and upgrade to a reverse later when the funds are available and not have to chop up the frame.My jig is pretty elaborate, every tube and tab is aligned in the fixture, it took 3 weeks and about 7 grand to get it where it's at and worth every penny.. It comes apart in 9 pieces and we call it, "JIGZILLA" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoshi Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 actually, the radiator, gas tank, gauges and panel tabs are done out of the fixture.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazlay43 Posted May 3, 2007 Author Share Posted May 3, 2007 we would be using it in the sand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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