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So Your Rhino Is Not Running Correctly?


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Here are a few things we have found in the past few years that can leave you scratching your head and your running around looking for a carb or a CDI.

We just had a Canadian customer call looking for a new or used carb for his 07 Rhino. He rebuilt the carb, cleaned the fuel tank, the filter and installed his buddy’s carb on his rhino as last resort. Only with the borrowed carb would the Rhino run.

Convinced he had a bad carb he called and I just could not believe the carb was bad.

After that I decided to post this message for all to maybe help you fix a few simple things before you :beat: the darn thing.

The 1st thing you want to check is the fuel filter. One of the symptoms of a clogged fuel filter is, It starts and idles and will even run wide open for a few then the engine starts cutting out. This has been the majority of the problems out at the dunes. We replace a lot of fuel filters out there.

The choke connection at the carb is another problem. The Rhino may or may not start, will probably start with the choke on but when you hit the gas it will die. This was our Canadians friends’ problem. It looked perfect but it was leaking.

We tell our customers whenever you work on the carb the 1st and last thing you want to remove and replace is the choke cable where it connects at the carb. This little plastic nut will break if too much force is applied on it, causing a vacuum leak. Besides that we have seen many Rhinos with nothing oblivious wrong with the nut or the o-rings and still the thing leaks.

To test this, unscrew the nut, remove the cable end from the carb (Yamaha calls it a starter set part number 5KM-1410A-00-00) and place your finger or call on the ultimate mechanic, good o'l duct tape to help you out. Cover the hole and if this was the problem, your problem should be solved by now.

Some of the items I found that make good sense to carry in your tool box, is a fuel filter, starter set (choke cable end) a tie rod end and tie rod. We have seen a lot of these parts break out on the dunes and trails.

If all of a sudden after landing a hard one or hitting the rut too hard, your steering is out of wack, it may be one of the tie rod pieces.

If the tie rods look good take a close look at the spindles. (Yamaha calls these a Steering knuckle) compare the arms that attach to the tie rods. One of them, and it seems to be the right side more than the left, one arm may be higher than the other. This will cause your steering to be off and out of alignment.

You can adjust this out in the field by turning the tie rods, but you need to measure the amount of threads (trust me on this one) too few threads in to the tie rod end and it WILL fall off! The steering knuckle will need to be replaced as it is now weak.

By working both sides you can usually get it back into alignment so you can finish your trip.

A note on tie rods, Yamaha does not sell tie rods. In order to get tie rods from Yamaha you have to buy the whole steering rack.

Frap sells a replacement heavy duty tie rod, and it will screw into the OEM rack, with a savings of about 150.00 in your pocket. Can anyone say beer money!? :beat:

I hope this will save a few trips when "Craig Law" happens. (Craigs law is Murphy was a lucky mother-:beat:)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the info, the choke was the problem on my Rhino, had to choke the crap out of it to start and every time I hit the gas it quit. I was headed down to get a new part and thought I would try vasaline on the slide and o rings and it worked! I used your idea of duct tape to find the problem.

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Thanks for the info, the choke was the problem on my Rhino, had to choke the crap out of it to start and every time I hit the gas it quit. I was headed down to get a new part and thought I would try vasaline on the slide and o rings and it worked! I used your idea of duct tape to find the problem.

I'm glad it worked for you.

Good 'ol duct tape... Don't leave home without it :laughoff:

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  • 4 weeks later...

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