SandBox_Kid Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I'm curious how often most of you change the oil on your sandrails.... I've been out 3 times and just pulled the plug....it's pretty black. Dirtier than I would have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ynot Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Every other trip for me. Car and quads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 every 2-4 trips on my 2 wheeler... depends on how hard i ride it that weekend.. if its a day trip w/ tons of riding then id usually change it before the next trip.. if its a 3 day weekend w/ lots of partying and little riding ill let it go a couple trips.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 ^^^ Hey fool...you don't have a sandrail He posted it in SANDRAIL TALK not ATV/ motorcyles! j/k I change mine about after 2 trips. It is still usually pretty clean too. Hell...lately I haven't had to change it at all these past few trips. But that's because it hasn't left the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don29palms Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 (edited) You're supposed to change the oil? My speedo hasn't reached 3000 miles yet. P.S. I've never seen a two wheeler sandrail. Got any picts? Edited March 30, 2006 by Don29palms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EY3BA11 Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 general rule of thumb... most sand rail owners follow the same rule!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneycar Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 every other trip out if it is going to be a long trip that I will change it for that trip long trip is more that 200 miles or how hard I push the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 On my last trip my breather hose split...I didn't catch it till who knows how much later. I was hoping for cleaner oil on this last oil change, but it's kind of tainted test with the hose split. I'm going to bump it up to every other trip and see how it looks then. Hopefully it'll look cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnut Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Firepole, I used to change mine every other trip in my vwpowered cars. Valvolene vr1. Cheap insurance for aircooled engines. I assume thats whats in your car, a vdub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 (edited) Firepole, I used to change mine every other trip in my vwpowered cars. Valvolene vr1. Cheap insurance for aircooled engines. I assume thats whats in your car, a vdub? Yes..... nothing major just a 1835cc. I'm also using a K&N remote filter. I'm not sure if it's worth $12 a pop, but I just wanted to be safe than sorry. Edited March 30, 2006 by cmyfirepole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunefreak Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 On my last trip my breather hose split...I didn't catch it till who knows how much later. I was hoping for cleaner oil on this last oil change, but it's kind of tainted test with the hose split. I'm going to bump it up to every other trip and see how it looks then. Hopefully it'll look cleaner. FYI: Engine oil becomes dirty (darker) from fuel, not sand. If you got some sand in the oil, you should't really see any difference in the color when you change it. I'm not trying to be a smartass, just letting you know in case you didn't know that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double-E Dave Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I've only been out once but I had to change the oil out there - had some problems. Other than that I'd probably change it at least every other time if not each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 FYI: Engine oil becomes dirty (darker) from fuel, not sand. If you got some sand in the oil, you should't really see any difference in the color when you change it. I'm not trying to be a smartass, just letting you know in case you didn't know that. Thanks for the info. If there's anything I can take it's constructive criticism. That's how you get good at this stuff. Listen, listen some more, then listen some more. Looks like I better start reading my Weber book......damn I didn't want to have to effe with the dual carbs yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don29palms Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Thanks for the info. If there's anything I can take it's constructive criticism. That's how you get good at this stuff. Listen, listen some more, then listen some more. Looks like I better start reading my Weber book......damn I didn't want to have to effe with the dual carbs yet. :angry: If you don't have a flow meter yet get one . You need one to get the carbs synced properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superdave Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 i have a tecmate, synchromate 2 if you want to borrow it. i havn't used it yet but its like new. got it off ebay a while back. was going to use it on my banshee but havn't gotten around to trying it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randog Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 I had a 2276 carburated 11.5:1 compression in my VW car that lasted over 10 YEARS. Nobody understood that. I ran Valvoline 50wt racing. For the first 4 years or so I changed the oil and filter EVERY trip. After break-in I ran slick50 in it for two trips. Always keep the carbs synced. Valves adjusted. I retorqued the heads after the break-in. I even ran straight 100LL avgas that I was told would harm the motor. Ya, that's a lot of maintenance, But I feel it paid off. The longevity and performance was worth every bit. I now change my oil every other trip with the Honda Turbo. I guess the compression from the turbo pushes fuel by the rings into the oil. Just though another story may help. R- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HappyHour Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) wow, I must be a freak compared to some of you guys. I have a complete routine that I perform on my rail in between each and every trip. I blame it on the routine on the race cars I used to work on. Here's my deal............between every trip I change the oil, change plugs, bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, nut and bolt the whole car, clean the whole car, and wax it also. I have a VW 2275 engine with 9:1 compression, no turbo or NOS. I run Kendall 30 weight oil. Also, at the start of every season, I change the tranny oil also. It may sound like a lot, but I'm so used to it by now, that I like to reffer to it as preventitive maintenance. I must say (knock on wood) that my cars have 9 times out of 10 driven back onto the trailer the same way they've come off. But anyway, just thought I'd chime in also................ :angry: Edited April 1, 2006 by HappyHour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightime Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 I'm curious how often most of you change the oil on your sandrails.... I've been out 3 times and just pulled the plug....it's pretty black. Dirtier than I would have thought. Heat will make the oil dark and start to break down, multi weight oil will break down faster than a single weight. I just read in hot vw's, if you put a heat shield on the J tube that passes under the heads you can drop the oil temp down 340 to 280. :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanddunesaddict Posted April 1, 2006 Share Posted April 1, 2006 Ive been luck enough to just tear the engine or trans down after each trip. So maintenance is easy to remember :smiley: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 i have a tecmate, synchromate 2 if you want to borrow it. i havn't used it yet but its like new. got it off ebay a while back. was going to use it on my banshee but havn't gotten around to trying it out. Thanks for the offer....I need to get velocity stacks and plan to purchase a meter that drops into them at the same time. I'll keep it in mind, but at this point I have no idea how to use one.....I have a couple of Weber books though and need to do my homework before screwing around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandBox_Kid Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 Heat will make the oil dark and start to break down, multi weight oil will break down faster than a single weight. I just read in hot vw's, if you put a heat shield on the J tube that passes under the heads you can drop the oil temp down 340 to 280. Thanks for the tip...I have been using multi-weight and will switch over to 30w.... I paid extra for the cooling tin under the heads....I think that's the one you are talking about. I'll have to look closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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