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Just picked up the new rail


dunefreak
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Dude that thing is BAD to the BONER!!!! That makes me wanna stop lookin at wakeboard boats and start lookin at mini's again!!!!! But now if I get one its gotta be at least ALMOST as cool as yours!!!! That thing rocks bro! Can you say DAAYYYY TRRIIIIIIP! (more like morning run, sleep all day then night run)

:DDRrocks:

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Dude that thing is BAD to the BONER!!!! That makes me wanna stop lookin at wakeboard boats and start lookin at mini's again!!!!! But now if I get one its gotta be at least ALMOST as cool as yours!!!! That thing rocks bro! Can you say DAAYYYY TRRIIIIIIP! (more like morning run, sleep all day then night run)

:DDRrocks:

haha, thanks Chris. BUY ONE! :lol: I might have to do an early AM run if I can get another rail out there with me. I always have to have a backup just in case I break down. Ya never know with rails. Maybe FYLIN RYAN will wanna test out his new front tires again. hmmm :idea::DDRrocks:

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Dammmmm PETE!!! thats lookin real good! did they upgrade the spindles again for ya?

Those were upgraded a while back. You can't get much stronger than these now. 4130 with 1 3/8" shafts and gusseted. :D

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haha, thanks Chris. BUY ONE! :rolleyes: I might have to do an early AM run if I can get another rail out there with me. I always have to have a backup just in case I break down. Ya never know with rails. Maybe FYLIN RYAN will wanna test out his new front tires again. hmmm :rolleyes::banghead:

Let me know when you are planning a trip and I might make it also. That would be fun for an early am trip

I have a few things to do on the rail before its ready to go out but let me know.

Capt

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Congrat's Pete,

That's one of my favorite color combo's, I like all of the extra bracing too. Very nice. :rolleyes:

Thanks Joe. I can't wait till next season to get back out with it w/ the rest of the crew. :rolleyes:

I was misisng it big time the last half of last season. :flowers:

Let me know when you are planning a trip and I might make it also. That would be fun for an early am trip

I have a few things to do on the rail before its ready to go out but let me know.

Capt

Me too. But you know it, Dave. Sounds good. I'll let ya know. :banghead::rolleyes:

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I read that it has 18" travel in the rear with a 85" wide track width with 930's, is that correct? How much clearance is under the frame at full bump?

The reason I ask, 930's should be limited at 24 degrees, i'm running my u-joint axles to 34 degrees, have have my center drive flanges lower than your sprocket drive center flanges, and have a 90" track width (94" track width if I used the same wheels you have) and I only have 20" travel in the rear, so that number seems incorrect unless there is no clearance under the frame when the shocks are bottomed out, and if the wheel may actually go above the frame to hit that number......

Edited by Yoshi
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I read that it has 18" travel in the rear with a 85" wide track width with 930's, is that correct? How much clearance is under the frame at full bump?

The reason I ask, 930's should be limited at 24 degrees, i'm running my u-joint axles to 34 degrees, have have my center drive flanges lower than your sprocket drive center flanges, and have a 90" track width (94" track width if I used the same wheels you have) and I only have 20" travel in the rear, so that number seems incorrect unless there is no clearance under the frame when the shocks are bottomed out, and if the wheel may actually go above the frame to hit that number......

You're right. I think it only has like 6 inches of travel. :banghead::rolleyes: j/k

You'd have to ask Larry. He's the one that built the car and I'm just going by what he states. The numbers listed are approximate. Maybe it's only like 16" of travel. Who knows. I don't know for sure all the rest of the exact specs and measurements that you are talking about. One of these days I'd like to find out for sure, but I'm not about to go rip my shocks off and start measuring it all.

I know the car works extremely well though regardless. :rolleyes:

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You're right. I think it only has like 6 inches of travel. :banghead::rolleyes: j/k

You'd have to ask Larry. He's the one that built the car and I'm just going by what he states. The numbers listed are approximate. Maybe it's only like 16" of travel. Who knows. I don't know for sure all the rest of the exact specs and measurements that you are talking about. One of these days I'd like to find out for sure, but I'm not about to go rip my shocks off and start measuring it all.

I know the car works extremely well though regardless. :rolleyes:

lol,..I was just curious, not saying Larry did it, but I know some manufacturers, that claim 24"+ of travel that is not usable travel. One vehicle I remember had to have the frame bottomed out and the wheel up 10" above the frame to hit the number they claimed, which means it was not usable travel. I also know some builders have their rail bottom out flat on the ground to claim higher travel numbers, when loosing 3 or 4" will actually make it handle so much better when the frame bottoms out above the ground, since it's not a dead stop, and the tires actually become bumpstops and have a much more progressive compression for the last bit of wheel travel....

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lol,..I was just curious, not saying Larry did it, but I know some manufacturers, that claim 24"+ of travel that is not usable travel. One vehicle I remember had to have the frame bottomed out and the wheel up 10" above the frame to hit the number they claimed, which means it was not usable travel. I also know some builders have their rail bottom out flat on the ground to claim higher travel numbers, when loosing 3 or 4" will actually make it handle so much better when the frame bottoms out above the ground, since it's not a dead stop, and the tires actually become bumpstops and have a much more progressive compression for the last bit of wheel travel....

But what about droop and DOWN travel. People tend to forget a shock works BOTH ways. Maybe im wrong. But I think its total wheel travel. So if your car sits with 4 inches of droop and has 18 inches of wheel travel and it sits HIGHER than 14 inches off of the ground, Isnt 18 inches of travel useable? Dont start flaming me, IM JUST ASKING? Yeah and I know NOWADAYS with these no droop monster truck looking cars People seem to forget about droop and down travel.

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But what about droop and DOWN travel. People tend to forget a shock works BOTH ways. Maybe im wrong. But I think its total wheel travel. So if your car sits with 4 inches of droop and has 18 inches of wheel travel and it sits HIGHER than 14 inches off of the ground, Isnt 18 inches of travel useable? Dont start flaming me, IM JUST ASKING? Yeah and I know NOWADAYS with these no droop monster truck looking cars People seem to forget about droop and down travel.

Wheel travel and usable wheel travel are 2 different things. If you raise the rail up so the wheels are barely touching the ground (lets say 18" at that point), then you lower the car as low as it will go (lets say the frame is completely bottomed out) then you have 18" of usable wheel travel. Now, if after you have dropped the rail so the frame is flat on the ground, if you can lift your wheel up off the ground (lets say 5") then your overall wheel travel would be 23", but your usable travel is only 18", because after the frame bottoms out, the extra 5" does nothing for you, therefore it's not usable.

And yes, the shock does work both ways, all rails should sit on some wheel droop. In my setup, You can raise the frame up, and with the wheels still touching the ground there is 26" ground clearance. Drop the rail down to 18" for my 9" droop at ride height, then down to 6" for my ground clearance at full bump, and I have 20" of usable wheel travel. I could have more usable wheel travel with less clearance at full bump, but I figured 20" was plenty of wheel travel, and the more ground clearance I have, the more likely I won't bottom out the chassis on jumps, or nose dive into the side of a hill when I hit the bottom to go up at a high rate of speed...

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Wheel travel and usable wheel travel are 2 different things. If you raise the rail up so the wheels are barely touching the ground (lets say 18" at that point), then you lower the car as low as it will go (lets say the frame is completely bottomed out) then you have 18" of usable wheel travel. Now, if after you have dropped the rail so the frame is flat on the ground, if you can lift your wheel up off the ground (lets say 5") then your overall wheel travel would be 23", but your usable travel is only 18", because after the frame bottoms out, the extra 5" does nothing for you, therefore it's not usable.

And yes, the shock does work both ways, all rails should sit on some wheel droop. In my setup, You can raise the frame up, and with the wheels still touching the ground there is 26" ground clearance. Drop the rail down to 18" for my 9" droop at ride height, then down to 6" for my ground clearance at full bump, and I have 20" of usable wheel travel. I could have more usable wheel travel with less clearance at full bump, but I figured 20" was plenty of wheel travel, and the more ground clearance I have, the more likely I won't bottom out the chassis on jumps, or nose dive into the side of a hill when I hit the bottom to go up at a high rate of speed...

...this why i want a rail from you! :laughoff: But since i can only afford a roller (maybe) right now(little one on the way), i wanna what until the SR2 anyway.

Edited by MQUnlimited
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