sandawg Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 (edited) This car I bought has been sitting for quite a while. I am nearly convinced that a knocking noise in the motor is one or more collapsed hydraulic lifters. Can they be removed by destroying the push rod tubes and replacing with spring loaded ones to keep from taking off the heads? Has anyone had any luck running a motor with a collapsed lifter and had it come back without hurting the motor by running it a while. I went with 20-50 oil before I knew what the problem was. I intend to go with 5-20 if that will help reload the lifter with oil. The car had limited runs on it and was a new rebuilt 1835. Any feedback on my quandry?? Thanks Edited November 3, 2008 by SANDAWG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp-guy Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Are you sure you have hydrolic lifters? Most motors are solid lifters. Either way you have to split the case to get at the lifters. They aren't like a typical car motor lifter where you can just slide it in and out. The lifters go in then the cam and crank before mating the 2 case halves together. Your ticking niose could be a rod bearing going bad. Those can be changed by removing the pistons and cylinders then carefully replacing them without spliting the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Very few are hydraulic, in later years it was an option on a rebuild. I would try adjusting valves first, if the PO didn't adjust them after a few runs from a rebuild then that could be the problem, if they are adjusted properly then the rod knock is probably the culprit. There is a grumpy old fart in Pahrump named iweb that has a turn key plug and play 2007cc motor with single Del carb for sale for $3200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted November 3, 2008 Author Share Posted November 3, 2008 Very few are hydraulic, in later years it was an option on a rebuild. I would try adjusting valves first, if the PO didn't adjust them after a few runs from a rebuild then that could be the problem, if they are adjusted properly then the rod knock is probably the culprit. There is a grumpy old fart in Pahrump named iweb that has a turn key plug and play 2007cc motor with single Del carb for sale for $3200. I'm going out today to check the push rods to see if they are hydraulic or solid. the rebuild ws about 3 years ago, hope they are hydraulic and that is the problem. Articles I read say that if a motor sits a while with pressure on the lifter they can leak down! We'll see if that is an option. I was under the impression that if the tubes were off that I could pull the lifters out with a magnet. Been too long since I had a VW motor to work on! Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp-guy Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 I'm going out today to check the push rods to see if they are hydraulic or solid. the rebuild ws about 3 years ago, hope they are hydraulic and that is the problem. Articles I read say that if a motor sits a while with pressure on the lifter they can leak down! We'll see if that is an option. I was under the impression that if the tubes were off that I could pull the lifters out with a magnet. Been too long since I had a VW motor to work on! Thanks for the info. Hopefully it is Hydraulic motor and it will pump back up. But either way (Solid or not) you have to split the case to replace those things. You might be able to pull the rocker arm off one side then pull out a pushrod and take a flashlight and peek down the tube to see the bottom of the lifter that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
britincali Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Hopefully it is Hydraulic motor and it will pump back up. If they dont pump up within 2-3 heat cycles they could be gummed up and stuck closed, Ive personally used a few quarts of diesel in with the oil then warm up the motor and drop the oil/diesel out. Ive also heard a quart of that marvel mistery oil is great with noisey lifters just make sure you swap out the oil after it quietens down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 If they dont pump up within 2-3 heat cycles they could be gummed up and stuck closed, Ive personally used a few quarts of diesel in with the oil then warm up the motor and drop the oil/diesel out. Ive also heard a quart of that marvel mistery oil is great with noisey lifters just make sure you swap out the oil after it quietens down. Strange... but I re adjusted the valves and reset the timing and it seemed to get better. Will run it a couple of more times and see what developes. Thanks for the tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iweb Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 I had an 1835 once that had a bad spark plug and it knocked like a rod was coming thru the block! Found it by start it and feel the exhaust pipes to see if a cylinder is not firing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandawg Posted November 5, 2008 Author Share Posted November 5, 2008 I had an 1835 once that had a bad spark plug and it knocked like a rod was coming thru the block! Found it by start it and feel the exhaust pipes to see if a cylinder is not firing. That's an idea too. Got new plugs and gapped them just haven't put them in yet. Will check the wires too! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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